Home is Home

Hello all,

Well, I have been home in Yorba Linda for nearly two weeks now and I figured that its time I wrote one more (and perhaps final) blog. Too be quite honest, I am a bit tired of this whole blog thing. While it has been a great outlet for me to process everything and share it all with you, I have also come to a point where I feel I lack the ability to really explain my experience. I feel that my creative juices are drained. So I will do my best.

After a very emotional goodbye at the airport with my Peace Centre colleagues, MCC team and host family, I hopped on an airplane to Joburg and then an 18 hour flight to DC (by the way if you don't like sitting on a plane for 18 straight hours avoid this flight at all costs). I then spent a weak at SALT re-entry retreat in Akron, PA. It was really great to swap stories with the 50 or so SALTers who were serving in Africa, Asia, the Middle East and Latin America. We were able to commiserate with one another, laugh about strange cross cultural experiences and smile about the good stuff we were leaving (perhaps forever). The whole thing was a little surreal. Last August we spent an amazing week at orientation, then spent a challenging year in a foreign land and were back full circle in Akron as if it never happened. But it did. And now we'll all be trying to figure out why and how. Why did we do it and how will it affect the rest of our lives. I'm still working on this one. The anxiety that I sometimes feel was common that week, and this puts me in some pretty good company.

Now back in California. I have been on overtime trying to catch up with everyone. We had a party with my family and I have spent most nights out with my friends. I got my Mexican food fix almost immediately. I have also enjoyed the speedy internet, nice soft bed and warm showers. Its blazin hot here, so I have also enjoyed our swimming pool. One of the best things about coming home is sitting down and sharing with people around me the many things I have seen and experienced while in Zambia. I understand that for many, Africa is a dark mystery, almost completely unknown to the average Western person. So I am relishing the opportunity to dispel some myths (and confirm some), to show pictures of lions and minibus taxis and nshima, to share some phrases in the local language and bring gifts like some long lost explorer coming from an unknown world. Its all pretty cool.

It has been strange getting used to American life, particularly life in Orange County, When I have been cycling or running down my street I have realized that people waving to me don't actually want to stop and talk with me. I am not so special here and people are busy, too busy to shoot the breeze with everyone who strolls by. And I am getting used to being just like everyone else. In Zambia, and in my Chilenje neighborhood I was like royalty and sometimes treated like a deity. Here I am just normal; which feels both good and bad at times. I am also getting a little bored with things. I am on the look out for that perfect job, and quickly realizing that I may not find it, or at least not for quite a while. Understand that I although things moved slowly in Zambia, each day I was bombarded with new and interesting things. New languages, foods, asylum cases, radio shows, people and other adventures. Although I am back in this fast paced environment, I am feeling a lack of stimulation. Don't get me wrong, I am loving home. But I feel that I need a new and interesting opportunity to come my way or I may just go a little mad.

People keep asking me "how was it?". This question is simple, but oh so difficult to answer. One of my fellow SALTers said (mostly in jest) that its not like we are coming back from summer camp; we just spent a whole year away from home in a different culture. For me (and for many others) my last year was a mix of joy, loneliness, adventure, dialogue, challenges, frustrations, insights and love. It was like a concentrated version of life. Africa especially is so raw. not it the underdeveloped sense. But in Africa life is so real. Births, breast feeding, cooking, working, moving, eating, death, survival all happens right in front of you. Not behind closed doors, but right in front of your eyes. The good and the bad. And as crazy as it all was I do miss it.

So now whats next? Thats the second question I keep getting asked. And although I have some pretty serious interests and ideas (mostly in the area of political science and public policy) I have not figured out which door I should go through. And since I tend to dwell on the future far too much (Africa did not cure me of this) I am getting a little anxious. I would love to do some more work with refugees and immigrants, and I have applied for a couple jobs and will keep my fingers crossed. Until then I will do some waiting, reflecting and hanging with my friends and family who know me best and should be able to help me plot my course.

I'm also eager to connect with a church. My time in Zambia has shown me how much I need real thriving Christian community in order to be sustained in my faith journey. Though Zambia was very Christian and my church was strong, I struggled mightily to connect in any significant way. So finding a good church and getting connected with be a priority for me. I am hoping to check out a nearby Brethren in Christ or Mennonite church since I have felt so at home in the Anabaptist tradition and way of life. Regardless where I land, I'll relish some theological challenges and spiritual support and guidance.

The further i get from Zambia, the fonder my recollections are of her. She was good to me as was everyone around me. The African way of life, living connected to those around you, ubuntu as its sometimes called, is real. Although sometimes I didn't know it or feel it, its something that i know will stay with me for a long long time.

Thanks for taking this adventure with me.

Grace and Peace,

Chris

pictures as promised

So, I guess some people are getting impatient waiting for some pictures:)

So I hope you'll enjoy them. Just follow this url:

http://picasaweb.google.com/cjtpics/ZambiaVisitAndSATravels#

Needless to say, our time was amazing. I really loved being able to share my Zambian experience with Ryan and Brett. And I think they had a very unique glimpse into real African living, which is much more than a safari, war and poverty.

And I must admit I fell in love with South Africa whilst traveling there. Cape Town and the Drakensberg Mountains should be on the top of any travel list. Beyond that, I also was completely intriqued by South African history: from the Boer Wars, to Apartheid to the present struggle to become a community based on justice and equality for all. It's truly fascinating.

We also met some interesting people along the way: plenty of laid off prfessionals looking to see the world, humanitarian workers and volunteers on holiday, plenty of ardent rugby fans, white South Africans who fled the country in protest of Apartheid, friendly Capetonians eager to share a bit of history and culture, missionaries, hippies and everything in between. This is always one of the best things about traveling.

I'll be trying my best to wrap things up well over the next week. Its tough telling people I may not be coming back. Some really dont understand. I've been lucky to make some true friends and family. As much as I long to be home, it will not be easy to close this chapter of my life.

Well, I doubt I'll make another post before returning home. So until then...peace and grace.

Chris

the news in brief

The last month or so has been quite a whirlwind. Im currently Johannesburg about to fly back to Lusaka where I will say goodbye and wrap up the last year in Zambia. Traveling with Brett and my good friend Ryan has been a blast. Instead of a long story, which I will save for later, the following list should do.

In the past month we....

-bought a village chicken to give as a gift
-ate every Zambian dish imaginable
-hosted a successful world refugee day
-enjoyed the African Braii...twice
-made lots of visits with friends
-cruised the mighty Zambezi
-had a monkey throw a rock at me
-explored the local markets with my buddy Peter
-almost crashed landed in Cape Town
-hiked Table Mountain
-ate some good lamb chops
-went to Robben Island
-explored the Cape Point
-went diving with Great White Sharks
-surfed in False Bay
-ate some great fish and chips at Kalky's
-went on a Cape Winelands tour
-Fell in love with the Western Cape
-enjoyed a safari in the Kruger...and saw the "big five"
-fell asleep to the sounds of hippos and baboons
-had some laughs with our guide Crazy Dave
-ate Cape Bufalo, Kudu, ostrich and springbok
-visited with Tony Cermac and his wife Dayna in Pretoria
-nursed Bret back to health after a bad tooth infection
-saw a Barnyard Broadway rock show with the Germiquet family in Joburg
-stood in awe of the Drakensberg
-visited Lesotho
-bought some mice from a boy and ate them...seriously
-had some good chats with Ryan and Brett
-met some cool folks
-shared a whole new world with two of my favorite people and best pals

So...as you can see, it has been crazy and amazing. Pictures are forthcoming. When I return to Lusaka I only have about 8 days before I fly home to PA for our re-entry retreat and then back home to friends and family. Lots of changes. The idea of returning has been bitter-sweet for me. And with all the amazing things I have done recently, and the time well spent with colleagues and friends (north anericans, Zambians and refugees alike), its feeling more bitter than sweet. But as my refugee friends always say...home is home. Well I should have a better update very soon.

Peace,
Chris

back from the Copperbelt

So I’ve been told that I am a bit behind with my blog, so here goes.

Last week I journeyed to Kitwe for the Africa Peacebuilding Institute (API), a program at Mindolo Ecumenical Foundation and sponsored my Mennonite Central Committee. There were more than 30 participants from 13 countries across the continent. The course was four weeks long, but I was there for just one week to take part in a course on “refugees and internally displaces persons”. Before the week started I enjoyed a great Mexican dinner with the Smith family and Ashley, my fellow MCC volunteers. It’s always nice to catch up and enjoy each others company. Since we will be heading home soon, this was the last time to be together here in Zambia, though the Smiths and I will try to meet up in CA when they return for home leave in July/August.

I stayed in the dorms with the other participants, rooming with Berhane, a participant from Ethiopia that I briefly got to know in Lusaka at the start of the month. Everyone really enjoyed being together, sharing about the cultures from their various countries. Food is one of those things that were discussed. In Zambia people eat caterpillars, and many of the visiting participants tasted them. When a Kenyan was asked if they had them in his country he replied, “Yes...but they are not food!!!!”. This is just one of the many things that demonstrate that Africa is not a monolith, but a collection of very distinct and varied cultures.

The course itself was very interesting, as each student brought a new and interesting perspective to our discussion. There were people from Uganda, Sudan, Kenya, Nigeria, Rwanda and many others, many of whom are actively working towards justice and peace in their respective contexts. I was especially struck by the complexity of many of Africa’s conflicts. For instance, the ruthless insurrection of the Lord’s Resistance Army is usually the only thing we know about conflict in Uganda. However, there are many separate conflicts based on ethnicity, land and political power, and our picture of the conflict in Northern Uganda is also a bit simplistic and uninformed. I tried as best I could to represent the refugee situation here in Zambia. Throughout the week I realized that I have become passionately connected to the struggles of refugees here. I also found myself thinking about how I might take my experience and use it for the public good back home, perhaps in a very local context. Three lessons learned: (1) violent conflict is not simple, in its causes or its possible solutions. (2)There are many capable and talented people working hard to bring just peace to their homelands. (3) I have a lot to learn.

Since coming back I have been very busy at work, catching up on some projects and meeting with various people at the Peace Centre. On the top of my list is the radio recordings that will take place this week and the event to commemorate World Refugee Day that I am planning. In fact I should really get back to work.

Enjoy these pictures from API and some of my visits around Lusaka with friends.

http://picasaweb.google.com/cjtpics/APIAndVisitingFriends#

Peace,

Chris

some fun with friends

Last weekend I had the opportunity to join a Israel, Congolese friend of mine, for a meal at his place in Kanyama, a urban compound which is home to many refugees. It is always interesting to visit these places, especially since I really stick out like a sore thumb. Israel lives on his own in a small one-room structure. There is a bed sheet used a partition to divide his sleeping and cooking area from his office where he meets people from his church (he is a Pentecostal pastor) and other business associates (he hires out keyboards and other sound equipment). He cooked me a huge feast of beans, nshima, rice and fish (which was great). Israel comes from a very male-dominated society, and it was not until he found himself alone as a refugee that he learned to cook and clean for himself. In fact, we like to have a good laugh at the fact that he can actually dish up a good meal. He has told me that he would even be willing to cook for his wife if he marries in the future.

Israel and I also went to visit another friend of ours from the Peace Centre who I hadn’t seen for several months. We walked to another nearby compound called Jon Leing, which seemed like “Little Congo” with all the Swahili being spoken. We spent a good hour or so chatting about America, Zambia and Congo and poking fun of the African heads of state (Asking things like who is the most corrupt, benevolent, ugly, handsome…etc) who were on a poster in the house while enjoying some cold Cokes. It was a good time.

On Sunday I went with my family to visit some relatives on a small farm outside Lusaka. We stuffed ourselves on narchies, which are something like tangerines, and we had two rabbits slaughtered which we have been eating throughout the week with out nshima. Power was cut for two nights during the week, which mean we had to cook outside. Most people use a small charcoal brassier, but my family is lucky to have propane powered gas stoves. The neighbors were in awe as we cooked on them, which I am sure partially influenced their purchase in the first place. We had a good time chatting in the cold as we cooked out supper.

On Wednesday I met up with a group from Canada here on a tour of some of the MCC projects in southern Africa. We ate some good food, and I shared some of my experiences and observations of my work and life in Zambia. I am afraid that the recent lull in activity has given me too much time to dwell on the failures and frustrations of my work, and I think it came out as I spoke with them. In private conversation I was asked some really probing and sincere questions, and I was far from diplomatic as I described the situation on the ground. I hope they appreciated my honesty and did not leave thinking that all the development work here is a waste of time. It’s true that I do question some of the efficacy and ethics of much of what I see, but I do not think we should throw in the towel. After all, for every corrupt and failing NGO there is one which is committed to working with the Zambian people to achieve peace and development. At the end I was asked to describe the overall SALT experience. I told them it was extremely difficult and frustrating at times, amazing and fun at other times, and overall a very rich experience. The conversation has reminded me that I really need to think about how I communicate about my experience, especially when I return home.

This weekend I will be joining two different friends and colleagues from a meal at their homes. Golden, our radio show technician has invited me to his place for a long overdue chance to eat and hang out. And Patrick, a Congolese refugee that I have visited before, has invited me to his church and for lunch. After all, praying together and eating together just makes sense. I am looking forward to what is sure to be a wild Pentecostal experience on Sunday.

One more thing. It does get cold in Africa. I have been wearing a fleece everyday for a week, even indoors. I am told it will only get colder in the last couple of months here before I leave. Too bad for Brett and Ryan who will be visiting soon.

Well I am off for the weekend.

Peace

Update

Last week we had one more instance of thieves trying to get into the guesthouse yard, but they were scared off by Max our dog. I’ll admit that I was a bit nervous and cautious from there on out. Don’t fret. I am perfectly safe.

Last Friday was Labour Day, and so it was a public holiday around here. I got up late, fixed a nice breakfast with freshly brewed coffee, relishing my last day staying at the MCC guesthouse alone. After a short run, I strolled over to show grounds, which is a complex with shops, football pitches, various businesses and some art studios. I met some of the artists at work. There are several professional artists doing wood carvings, metal work and paintings. Not the mass produced stuff that most tourists go home with, but professional, creative and thus, expensive. It was really great to see some industrious artists, some of whom are making a decent living.

I also visited Arcades shopping center, which is a modern mall in Lusaka, complete with movie theatre, cafes, restaurants, supermarkets, craft shops and music stores. They also have a nice book shop, and I went there looking for a nice coffee table book of Zambia or Africa more generally. However Nelson Mandela’s autobiography, A Long Walk to Freedom, caught my attention and I left with a rare impulse by. A Long Walk to Freedom, at more than 750 pages, is a really long book, but very interesting. Mandela starts from the beginning with explanations of his childhood in the country, the complex tribal relationships and cultural traditions and slowly gets into his young adulthood and involvement in the South African freedom struggle. I am already more than 200 pages deep into the book, and I am learning a lot about apartheid and the life of one of the 20th century’s most important figures. I also find it interesting as I consider South Africa’s current political situation, having recently elected Jacob Zuma, a populist politician who was on trial for corruption and admits to a very reckless and irresponsible sex life. From the very little that I know, I do not think he measures up to Mandela, as a man or a leader.

Friday through Sunday last week, I joined John Moeller (one of our MCC volunteers placed in Lusaka) on some trips to the airport and helped host guests who were en route to Kitwe for the Africa Peacebuilidng Institute for the month of May. We had folks from Zimbabawe, Sudan, Kenya, Uganda and Ethiopia. I especially enjoyed spending some time with the Ethipian group, which comprised of three men and one woman. They were very outgoing and eager to share their culture with me. They gave me copies of there traditional music and even taught me some dancing. It will be fun to meet them again when I go to Kitwe at the end of May for the course on refugees. I also had the opportunity to meet with an American missionary who works with Somali refugees in Kenya. We shared experiences and discussed how the influx of Somali money has really impacted the local economy in Kenya, something I had heard about in the news recently. Again it will be interesting to discuss more when I join them.

On Sunday I attended a French mass at St. Ignatius where one of our Congolese staff members was having his new baby girl baptized. The church was beautiful and the choir was amazing. After the service many of us went to the home of Gonzague and Ghislaine (the director of the Peace Centre and his wife) for some food, drink and great conversations. I must have spent two solid hours discussing the global financial crisis, the politics in DR Congo and religion in Africa and America.

Yesterday after work, Samboko (one of my host brothers) and I went to the market to buy some sugar cane. For less than 50 cents we got a ten foot long stalk cut into several pieces and took it home with us. The Zambians there really had a laugh watching me carry it, probably not even believing that I would actually eat the stuff. Sugar cane, which I first tasted during my trip to southern province, is slowly becoming a guilty pleasure of mine. We made a ness chewing on the stuff while watching some Champions League football.

The work week has been slow, but we did manage to plan radio shows to last several weeks beyond my departure in July. I also participated in a joint meeting at UNHCR to discuss plans for World Refugee Day in June. Since the government provided budget has been cut to virtually nothing, I suggested we host a small event at Peace Centre, something that I am now trying to organize. We also had a children’s festival at Peace Centre, which was nice. Gonzague and I both agreed that sometimes its nicer to work with the children, who seem to be much more grateful and happy, despite the challenging circumstances. And strangely enough, today a reporter from Radio Christian Voice came to Peace Centre to interview me and a few others for a feature show to be aired for Africa Freedom Day on May 25th. Apparently it will include my comments about the economic crisis and African freedom, along with several ambassadors and Kenneth Kaunda, the first Zambian president. I got the sense that they wanted the perspective of an expatriate, but can’t help but think that there are plenty of better people than me for this. Strange, but kind of cool. I will be sure to obtain a copy.

Well, that’s all for now.

Grace and Peace

no swine flu here

Well, since returning back to Lusaka from Southern Province I have been staying at our MCC guesthouse. Eric and Kathy, our MCC Zambia country directors left for regional meetings in Mozambique, and I have been house sitting. I have been enjoying some solitude, since I have the place all to my self. I have been cooking my own food, taking hot showers each morning, reading, studying French and connecting my friends and family through skype. Let me tell you, it has been good.

Work has been rather uneventful, other than that Yokwe and I switched roles, this time having me interview him for the radio. Yokwe has a pretty incredible story fleeing Sudan and becoming a refugee in Zambia. I also taught enlgish on Friday, again covering idiomatic expressions like "icing on the cake" and "good to go". I enjoy teaching, and the students seem to enjoy having me teach them every once in a while. But again, the work week was less than thrilling.

Friday evening however, Simon, our night guard, was greeted by thieves who had jumped over our wall and into our yard. Apparently they were trying to get into our storage shed, but were quickly chased away by Simon wielding a stick and a big, mean German shepherd named Max. I slept through the whole thing and only learned about it in the morning. No harm, but a bit creepy, not least because I am staying alone in the big house. Not too long ago I was told that thieves had made off with some patio furniture while the guard and the dog slept. Incidents like this are to be expected when you have a wealthy neighborhood (complete with Land Rovers, Land Cruisers, electric fencing and spiked walls) situated right next to poor compounds. There is a big gap between the haves and have nots, and I think this was a good lesson on the topic. And don't worry I am safe and in good health.

Saturday I went to a birthday party at the FORGE house (you should remember them from my visit to the refugee camp and our radio interview with two of their scholarship students). They were celebrating birthdays for Audrey, one of there American staff, Peter, a Sudanese refugee studying in Lusaka, and the young son of one of their Zambian employees. We ate some good food (complete with japaties made by Paul, a bright Sudanese refugee and a cake made by Nick, Audrey’s husband who also works for FORGE), and we watched some Zambian dancing with hip shaking and pelvic thrusts that would make just about any American blush. It was a good time, and a lesson in cultural differences like observance of time, thoughts on food, and rituals around gift giving and parties in general.

I stayed with my host family Saturday night, since I had planned to attend church the next day. We had a breakfast of sweet potatoes, boiled eggs and bread roles commonly referred to as John Cenas (in case you did not know, and I salute you if you didn’t, John Cena is a professional wrestler and movie star in the U.S. who probably has his biggest fans in here in Zambia. People watch it on TV, wear the t-shirts and even name there food after them. The bread roles are big. John Cena is big. Therefore a big bread role becomes a John Cena. Crazy but true. And whatever you do, don’t try to convince a wrestling fan that it’s all an act. You are fighting a losing battle). So I went to church and enjoyed a typical Sunday meal (rice and chicken) with them.

I’m eagerly anticipating this weekend when we have almost twenty people coming to Zambia to take part in the month long MCC Africa Peacebuilding Institute. The participants, all MCC partners of some sort and active in the area of peace and justice work in various countries in Africa, will spend a month at Mindolo Ecumenical Foundation taking courses on peacebuilding and dialoguing with one another. I will be greeting them at the airport and helping them get to the bus station and on their way to Kitwe. The last week of May I will be joining them for a course on refugees and internally displaced people. It will be a great opportunity to learn from people from Uganda, Sudan, Kenya and Zimbabwe…etc, people who have a special knowledge about peace and conflict in Africa.

Well that’s about it.

Lots of love,

Chris